The Journey of the Dress Vogue 2401
Hello, all you lovely fashionistas. 💕
As promised, I thought I would go through the process of how I would make a garment and guess what? What better pattern to use than ‘my dress of the moment’ VOGUE 2401.
Especially as I know so many of you have gone out there and bought it too. We are united...THE STYLE TEAM! 💋
So I am going to call this...THE JOURNEY OF THE DRESS VOGUE 2401 ☺
Not long ago, I asked for advice from my fabulous Facebook group, 'That's Sew Terry Fox' on which fabric to use for my next dress. Being the 4th dress of the same design. Just in case you haven’t seen them all 😉 the photos are below.
I was choosing between the two fabrics, and a few beautiful sewsters mentioned: "why not both together?"...Yaaaaaaaaaaaay brilliant idea! 💖 So both it is then.
The first time you make a dress is usually the most difficult, but as it turned out for me, it was the easiest. Although I learned a lot regarding understanding the pattern construction. Each time it was my fabric that created the challenge!
The Ascot dress had a really large pattern match, and the pink dress is obviously a border print. The truth is I didn’t Have enough fabric for either. But we never let a little thing like that get in our way. Do we? 😍
So just when I thought I am plain sailing for the 4th dress. The biggest challenge was yet to come. It is never easy, is it 💕💕
The pattern needs almost 5 metres approximately of fabric. I have 3 of the Sacred Hearts and lots of black and white. But I want The Hearts to be the main feature. So here’s what I needed to do:
1. Decide on which area’s to put the black and white. I created a deep border for the hem. Collar and cuffs for the sleeves. A facing for the front skirt. I marked the position on the pattern and cut all these pieces from the black and white.
The big problem, my lovely fabric is another one of my finds from India. Another endearing, winky wonky, hand block print. Not so charming by the time I had finished 😄. The block print was sooooo far off the grainline the pattern started wandering off to the deep South East 😍 after a couple of attempts to match the uneven, broken stripe. I decided to let it be. I'd rather the dress with it than without. So let’s see what happens later 😄 ( see photos below )
2. Now to cut the rest from The Hearts. Easy...Noooooo!
The problem...I want to eliminate the centre back seams in the top and skirt to prevent needing more fabric for pattern matching. Easy, fold back the seam and place on the fold.
Fine for the skirt, but slightly different for the top, as the centre back seam has shape to it. When placed against the fold, you lose the shape. I decided to do that anyway. Then later, I will show you how I got the shape back.
But to do this successfully, I needed the Centre back fold to be perfectly in the middle of the Hearts. So when stitched it wouldn’t cause too much disruption to the shape of the heart. So I had to choose the position wisely. I followed the most prominent heart on there — the big red one. I will explain later.
Well just about squeezed this dress out. But I did have to do a little unwanted seaming in the tie, as there was not one piece of fabric large enough. But no one will notice. You can barely see it. I have tried to show you in a photo below.
3. Cut out your interfacings.
For this dress, it is for the collar only, and I shall apply a cotton woven, fusible interfacing. Perfect ‘go to’ interfacing for cottons and linens.
4. Now I shall attach all my black and white pieces to The Hearts. Stitch and press, so they become one.
And believe it or not, we are right back at the beginning. Starting the process of making this dress:
STEP 1:
Cut out your pattern pieces, fabric and interfacings 💕
Ok, everyone. I shall be back tomorrow with Step 2 to explain what I do next.
Hope you like the fabric choice. And all the above makes sense.
Have a great day scheming new outfits. I know you will! 😍
Great big fabric hugs from me.
Hi everyone 💕 so here as promised is the next step of making this dress.
Step 1. Cut out your pattern, your fabric and interfacings and fuse into place. That’s basically it.
The rest of the post explained the particular issues I am having with my fabric choices. Two different subjects really. I am trying to separate them, so it doesn’t sound confusing. I hope that’s working. 😄
Remember, this is how I work because I need to achieve a lot in a day. It truly is a personal thing. I am not saying this is the right way. Some may even say it's wrong. But having worked at every level of the fashion industry. It’s the most effective way for me to achieve the best and quickest results.
If you are are a beginner, of course, you have to familiarise yourself with the pattern pieces. But as an experienced sewer with over 40 years in the business. I know it doesn’t matter how fancy it is, how complex, how detailed a sleeve, a neckline, a bodice or trouser leg is. One way or another, they always end up in the same place. So have faith you will get there!
The greatest saying ever is you learn by your mistakes. I call them experiences, not errors. And every one of those will make you a better sewer than you were the day before.
So here goes...!
STEP 2
Lay all of your pieces in front of you. Now pin anything and everything you can possibly pin and place together.
So I am not following the pattern and working in sequence.
E.g. Bodice then skirt etc., I am working the whole garment in one.
This means fewer trips to the machine, ironing station, pattern instructions...Brain space...and so on.
So for this dress, I was able to pin the following:
BODICE FRONT
* bodice centre front
* collar darts
* C.B neck seam
BODICE BACK
* Neck darts
* Sleeve darts
* Centre back darts
* waist darts either side of C.B
FRONT TIES
* Fold as pattern
COLLAR
* Neck darts
* C.B seam
MAIN SKIRT
* Side seams
FRONT SKIRT
* Darts
* Side Facings ( will explain later)
You could even do all of that while watching the T.V. You are now prepped ready to machine.
Machine everything you have pinned. Finish the main seams too either by zigzag or overlock. Also, finish the front skirt facing edge.
So all this is done without moving from the machine. Now to The ironing board and press everything. Including the front facings back.
So this is literally one lot of machining, one pressing session. Look at how far you have come.
See my photos below. This dress is well on its way.
Tomorrow I am going to explain STEP 3.
Now things to mention:
1. I do not apply tailors tacks. No one in the trade uses tailors tacks other than Tailors and Couturiers. Of course, you can, this is your choice.
I mark darts simply by placing pins through the pattern. See below.
This is quick, accurate and effective!
2. See my Centre back dart in the bodice. This is to put some shape into the waist without having a Centre back seam. Causing less disruption to the pattern in the back is a really obvious place.
The problem is the hearts aren’t all lined up. So something had to give. So I disrupted the small heart. Then I am going to fix it later. (yes like the Ascot dress) ☺💖
3. Note my centre front seam on the bodice. Here I had to have a seam because of the collar. To prevent having an issue as described above for the back. I put the seam in a black space. So no pattern match, because the seam is short. I was able to avoid having a heart in the middle. See photo.
4. The front skirt underlaps the main skirt. I feel it needs facings attached on the sides. The pattern suggests turning in and topstitching. I have added the facings as I believe it hangs better. Please see the photo below.
Phew well, that’s it for now. I hope it all makes sense and gives you a better understanding of this dress and how I work. Will be back tomorrow with part 3.
Enjoy the rest of your day. I am loving our new dress by the way 😍. Looking very Dolce and Gabanna, don’t you think? 😉
Yaaaaaaaaaaaay very happy 😄
So here's the next part to explaining the process of making this dress.
I basically pin and stitch anything and everything possible at the very beginning. Add your interfacings too. In this case, I applied a light to medium weight fusible cotton.
This often means you can now pin all the darts, some side seams, some joining seams. Anything that’s do-able at this stage. This means one lot of pinning. One trip to the machine and sew. Include finishing those seams if you can. Then over to the ironing board, press everything.
Now repeat. Whatever can go together next...Pin. You will find you can complete the bodice in just a few steps. Same with the skirt. Before you know it, the dress will be complete. So for today...
The Bodice
1. Make up following the patterns instructions. But watch out for those tricky side panels. Basically, there are two. One is fitted and is attached to the front bodice. The other is like an overlay which becomes the tie on the front of the dress. This one is the confusing one. It is only stitched under the arm. Not to the front of the dress. There are some markings to position it. But they are just to lay, not to sew 😍
2. So next I joined my Shoulder seams and centre front. NOT THE SIDESEAMS. You can now add your collar when the bodice is still open flat. It’s more difficult when the side seams are closed.
3. Don’t forget from the previous dresses I added a couple of inches of boning to the centre back of the collar. To help it stand proud. Do this now before adding to the dress.
4. Finish off all your seams to look neat and press everything in place. The bodice should now be finished other than the sleeve hems.
NOTE. My only little addition is one small appliqué at the centre back to ‘fix’ the broken pattern from stitching the centre back dart. I thought it needed it. I could have added more to the other two darts. One either side. But thought I need to stop this obsession somewhere see photo 😂💕
Ok, the bodice is ready. Please see some ‘work in progress’ photos below.
I shall cover the skirt in my next post 😊
Hope this has been of interest to you.
Thank you, everyone. Loved chatting to you. Take care. Will be back.
So we are nearly there with our Vogue 2401 💕💕
The trouble is the more we talk about it, the more I want another one! 💕 I have just had a new delivery of fabric. One of them is sooooo crazy; it’s perfect. Think Villanelle in Killing Eve 😏💖 . Will post out later 😏
SO TO FINISH...THE SKIRT
1. I mentioned before I added a facing to the sides of the front skirt. See photo below. This gave a much better weight and hang to the sides and hem.
2. The main skirt should be joined already at the sides. The facings need to be folded back and pressed into position.
3. Add the main skirt to the main bodice. This includes the tie front pattern pieces.
4. Add the front skirt to the front bodice. This is the one with the side panels. Add some ribbon to either side of the waist.
5. Hem the skirt. Hem the sleeves
...And let’s party 😍😍😊💃💃😄😄🍸🍷 it’s finished 💖 So easy and fabulous to wear. Enjoy! 😉
I will be back with more stories to have you in ‘stitches’. Haha, don’t worry, it can only get worse! 😂😂
Don't forget to join us on our fabulous sewsters group 'That's Sew Terry Fox' 😍
It’s a glorious Saturday Morning 💖😃
I am busy rushing around getting ready to catch a train to Harrogate. Changed my mind on what to wear several times already. I am going to be at The Harrogate Bridal Show for a couple of days. So don’t want to dress too comfortably ( I love comfort). Nor too businessy. A bit fashiony and a bit quirky. You know how it is 😂😂💖
I had a little delivery of Butterick patterns this week. I always buy from Jaycotts. Sometimes Minerva Craft, online. But unless I am desperate, I always wait to stash up when the sales are on. 💖
I will post from The Harrogate Show, and I shall be wearing my new Vogue 2401 for one of the days. I will make sure to take a photo. Then as soon as I can, I will post the continuation of making up the dress as promised.
Happy Monday morning everyone 😃💖
Just to let you know, I had a wonderful day yesterday. I met some fabulous, creative people.
I can’t wait to meet up with some of these businesses again and work with them in the future. Either helping them to build their own collections or implementing a pre-wedding dress experience. An inspirational experience for the bride to be.💕
I am honestly so excited at knowing what’s possible.
They have the world in the palm of their hands. There’s not enough emoji’s to show how I feel to be part of their journey.
For me, it’s a dream come true to make other people’s dreams come true. That sounds so cheesy I know, it’s probably an age thing. But I am on top of the world right now 😏😏😏😏😏😆
So here’s a few snaps from yesterday. Back to it today and home this evening. Back to sewing tomorrow
Just perfect. 💖
YIKES IT’S SUNDAY, AND I AM IN HARROGATE 😲😉
Feel like my first day at school. Not that I can remember that far back 😂😂
Anyway got to go...but did a selfie. Not good at those. But thought you might like to see the Vogue 2401 dress. 😂😂
Happy Peaceful Tuesday 😊💕
I am back home, sat here, having a lovely cup of tea. Chatting about my awesome time at The Harrogate Bridal Show. Stroking my gorgeous Shabby the Cat. I realised she is snoring and not listening to a word I am saying. Bit rude if you ask me 😲😂😂💕
So lovely sewsters back to Earth for me! I promised you the next step of Vogue 2401. Here is a photo of the finished dress on the mannequin plus a quick snap of where we got to as a reminder.
But for today I need to update you on this design. So...well you all know I adore this pattern. I have made it up several times to prove it. But after this weekend I need to explain one little issue I have with it.
Please, I don’t want to put you off. It’s a fabulous dress, and I had so many compliments. I felt wonderful wearing it.
The pattern cut is quite unusual, and there are no fastenings, it's like putting on an apron. The front ties around the back and then the back comes over the top and knots up on the front as you can see from the photo. This means it’s a wrap over on both sides. When you sit down, get in a car, walk up some steps. Those sides separate and open up. A subtle flash now and again at a special occasion can be quite sexy. But when you are working, storming from one place to another, it was a bit annoying — flashing right to the tops of my legs! I was trying to anchor it down on both sides all of the time. This was work, after all.
So my update is...for a special occasion, perfect. For an active day, maybe not so suitable!
Having said that. I like the overall look so much I am going to fix the problem. My plan is to eliminate the wrap in the skirt. So side seams only. We can still have the tie over etc., on the bodice. To be honest, in the finished silhouette, you will hardly see the difference.
Then I shall put a zip in the back.
I will make one with these alterations. Then report back to you when it is done. This is just like it is in the industry. A dress just keeps evolving. There is a lot of time, skill, and cost involved before it becomes an absolute winner. 😍💖
Have a fabulous day; everyone! Will be back tomorrow. Hope you like the dress for now.
Big kisses and fashion hugs 💖💋💎